As you step through the door, you immediately feel a sense of ease, that of tables that have established their identity and found their way. This Cartouches is both wise and well-launched, with Caroline's impeccable service and Nicolas Brousse perfectly in his element, almost nonchalantly following his dishes from one to the next, delighting in unison a room that has been fully won over. Amid a lively atmosphere where conversation abounds, the plates flow with ease, perfectly executed little ideas showcasing the local terroir in a spirit that's both canaille and personal. We find the very gourmet onion tatin, Morteau sausage sauce and herb salad, rich and intense, the lovely terre-mer of black pudding, garlic prawns and creamy bisque, then an ultra-melting lamb, confit shoulder, red onion pickles, mustard seeds, glazed turnips and polenta. The dessert ends the sequence on a well-delivered note of lightness: rice pudding, homemade granola, apple-coconut sorbet and caramel. On the cellar side, the selection has grown in stature, with fine references as well as auteur wines: Julien Braud, Christian Binner, Jacques Selosse, Marcel Deiss, Clos Larrouyat, Clos du Gravillas, Peyre Rose, la Grange des Pères, Bellivière, Stéphane Ogier, Tissot and Chantal Lescure. Menus from €38 to €58.