Just a bistro perhaps, but also the epicenter of a local renewal movement. Jean-François Têtedoie brings this dynamic to life in this festive, committed place, with local products and recipes rooted in taste and natural ingredients: homemade terrine, mushroom tartlet, stuffed cabbage with Albuféra sauce, sweetbread and snail vol-au-vent, beef cheek à la royale. It's an unrestrained, unadorned, unceremonious, unmysterious feast.