If you're going to do a classic Parisian brasserie, for a few euros more, you might as well go for a legend. The orange banner reading "Brasserie Lipp" should do the trick. Choose a table where you can see the room and the ballet of service, and select plates that are a little emblematic: egg in jelly, celery remoulade, Bismarck herring, 5A andouillette, pork knuckle with lentils, Lipp sauerkraut. If you're a regular, you can of course make do with a few oysters from Dupuch and a tartar. The crème caramel is also a standard that counts.