An emblematic brasserie, less mythical than Lipp or La Coupole, but one that boasts a century of history and can boast of having seen so many great figures. Nothing more, but nothing less either, well-observed codes, diligent and important service, savoir-faire in the welcome as well as on the plate: seafood, of course, crustaceans from the vivier, tartare and mussels with chablis, sole meunière and châteaubriand béarnaise, to which are added the new standards, fish and chips, ceviche, octopus carpaccio and other modern nonsense. Cellar of little interest, expensive glasses.