Bras, le Suquet

12210 LAGUIOLE
17/20
 Prestige Restaurant
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© Bras - Jl Bellurget
© Bras - Jl Bellurget
© Joann Paï
12 PHOTOS
Chef
Sébastien Bras
Cooking
French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine
Services
Access for people with disabilities | Electric charging station | Private Parking
Style
Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
205 € to 285 €

Gault&Millau's review

17/20
Prestige Restaurant At an altitude of 1220 meters, on the high plateaux of Aubrac, a building with clean lines and a sharp silhouette stands silently face-to-face with the horizon. Built over thirty years ago by Michel Bras, it embodies a radical and poetic vision of hospitality: straight lines, raw materials, volumes inspired by the landscape, and a rigor that borders on purity. Inside, the geometrically sober, nave-shaped room extends this sense of voluntary retreat, open to the immensity of the Cantal and Sancy mountains, and sometimes, in the distance, to the line of the Pyrenees. Sébastien Bras, the custodian of this founding work, carries on its momentum with a fidelity expressed more in substance and respect than in invention. His cuisine, deeply marked by his father's heritage, celebrates plants with sensitivity. The gargouillou, teeming with vegetables, herbs, seeds and flowers, retains its grace intact: a vibrant, edible landscape. The frogs, although fresh, are overcooked, and the whole dish remains a little too simple on the palate, despite the wonderful idea of a corn with old Laguiole, spiced up with black garlic and surrounded by valerian, which aptly extends the house's plant-based heritage. The steamed oyster, on the other hand, is sensual, with a sparkling pelargonium sabayon. Beef, perfectly rosé, asserts itself with aplomb in a lively plate of chanterelles, crunchy beans and herbs, before the truffled aligot, spun at the table according to a well-honed ritual, offers a parenthesis of pure earthy pleasure. The emblematic dessert, the apricot cookie coulant, revisits the famous liquid heart with precision and balance; the fouace ice cream, original and sweet, prolongs the regional note. The second dessert, with blueberries and Tulsi basil, seduces with the tension between herbs, fruit and milk, without ever taking the easy way out. We finish with a playful touch reminiscent of childhood: cotton candy with cumin and a cart of rare-flavored ice creams, served in miniature cones. As for the cellar, the house boasts a treasure trove of 25,000 bottles, featuring the finest names from our regions, with a wine list by the glass of rare relevance: short, coherent, yet rich in essential authors, it subtly matches the vegetal and contemplative spirit of the cuisine. Only the service sometimes seems to lack impetus, as if held back by a kind of discreet reserve; the gestures are applied, but the exchange would benefit from being fleshed out, to better accompany a cuisine so demanding in its reading. A perceptible contrast, all the more regrettable in that this house, born of a sincere impulse over thirty years ago, continues to tell the Aubrac story with a rare authenticity.
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Address Route de l'Aubrac
12210 Laguiole
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People
  • Sébastien Bras
    Sébastien Bras Chef
    Sébastien Bras Sébastien Bras Chef
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    Benjamin Seignat Pastry Chef
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Benjamin Seignat Pastry Chef
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    Charles Decoene Chef de service
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Charles Decoene Chef de service
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    Sergio Calderon Head sommelier
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Sergio Calderon Head sommelier
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    Théo Larroque Sommelier
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Théo Larroque Sommelier