We've spent many an evening re-envisioning the world of bistros at Paul Bert, bon gorgeons included! Nostalgia may not be what it used to be, but the place has the advantage of still being there, with a slate and a plate that's always tempting: os à moelle à la vigneronne, cervelle de veau pochée citronnée, hachis parmentier, potée de cochon au chou, sirloin of beef with pepper sauce, before desserts from the repertoire, baba, paris-brest, soufflé Grand Marnier.