Opened in 1987 by Marcel Baudis, this famous Gascon restaurant is no longer as roguish as it was in its early days, but it's still going strong under the direction of Sylvain Tracard. The chef has modernized the spirit, offering salads and lighter dishes in tune with a more figure-conscious age. The pleasure remains with foie gras de canard des Landes mi-cuit au vin d'épices et piment d'Espelette, filet of sea bream with lemon sauce and mushroom risotto, confit de canard des Landes, crushed potatoes with parmesan and arugula, a cassoulet as in Castelnaudary. Reasonable prices.