Despite its name, this is a good-natured bistro in a quiet corner close to the center of town. Regulars appreciate this freewheeling cuisine, blending traditional ideas with a variety of influences, in plates to share: green beans with tahini sauce and mint oil, skate terrine with tarragon bell pepper kalamata, pork and veal sausage with prune ketchup and buckwheat praline, roasted apricots with orange blossom pistachio yoghurt..