Tradition and savoir-faire at Guy Clauss and his sister Chantal's well-established establishment. Chef Claude Loehr has been turning spoons in sauce for a quarter of a century, and his talent is reflected in timeless classics: goose foie gras with muscatel jelly, filet of Vieux Strasbourg pike-perch with foie gras and noodles, châteaubriand Henri IV, veal kidneys with mustard sauce. Nostalgia is good...