In a setting far more chic than an estaminet, it's easy to see why Stéphane Maillard has changed his name over the years. The Maître-Restaurateur has a sense of welcome, and the chef takes over brilliantly, with a simple, classic vision of fresh produce: marinated salmon, fillet of gilthead bream with vegetable jardinière, roast lamb with thyme and parmentier in the €24 menu, in the middle of a well-stacked range.