Auberge Saint-Laurent

68510 SIERENTZ

Practical information

Chef
Laurent Arbeit
Cooking
French | Traditional
Style
Romantic | With family
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
65 € to 125 €

Gault&Millau's review

15/20
Remarkable Restaurant Opposite the town hall, this adorable 18th-century half-timbered coaching inn is a must-see in the Sundgau region. The warm soul preserved by the Arbeit family and the recently revitalized décor invite you to take a break from the hustle and bustle. However, how you feel depends on which room you're in: on this particular evening, we're in the elegant but more neutral interior space adjoining the terrace, where people come and go as they please. Despite the beautiful round tables, lamps, candles and floral arrangements rarely seen elsewhere, this room is not as cosy as the main one. The clientele from the three-border region - Sundgau, Switzerland and Germany - is a reminder that this is an address that knows how to bring people together around classic cuisine, brought up to date by Laurent Arbeit, who trained at the Auberge de l'Ill, with Pierre Carrier and Alain Ducasse. In the "Your choice" menu, pink Sundgau trout, barely smoked and just lukewarm, is placed on a brunoise minestrone; almond milk pearled with trout roe adds a lightly saline touch. Half-cooked duck foie gras, rosé and sprinkled with fleur de sel, one of the house's great classics, finds an Alsatian counterpoint in caramelized sauerkraut and the tart sweetness of elderberry vinegar caramel. Lobster, cooked just right, with its pearly, well-behaved flesh, is served in a tabbouleh with crunchy fennel, shiso pistou and a yuzu sabayon whose acidity remains perfectly contained. Risotto-style knepfles, miniaturized to the point of spaetzle, are creamy with white wine, Parmesan and mushrooms, to the point where the latter outweigh a naturally discreet summer truffle. The rack of lamb, served too quickly with the sauce poured directly over the meat, nevertheless reveals exemplary cooking. It is magnified by an elongated bell pepper, stuffed with confit shoulder reminiscent of a refined Niçois farci, and by a couscous of rare finesse with light, subtly perfumed semolina. The meal ends with a daring dessert: based on Xoco Red Mayan 90% chocolate, signed Xoco, a pioneer producer of original cocoa, the warm tartlet, rich with a classic ganache and supported by a soufflé of rare lightness, is accompanied by Tonka bean ice cream with notes of blond tobacco and vanilla. With almost 400 references, numerous half-bottles and purchases signed Anne Arbeit, the cellar asserts a true collector's seriousness; the D-Vine glass menu, limpid and didactic, completes the ensemble. To approach excellence, all that's needed is for weekend service to become more flexible and attentive; the plate, on the other hand, certainly lives up to all its promises.
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Address 1 Rue de la Fontaine
68510 Sierentz
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Monday Lunch Dinner
Tuesday Lunch Dinner
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  • Laurent Arbeit
    Laurent Arbeit Chef
    Laurent Arbeit Laurent Arbeit Chef
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    Lionel Oberle Sommelier
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Lionel Oberle Sommelier