Locals, Rouennais and even Parisians on holiday in the Cauchois region are delighted with the revival of Val au Cesne. This is the real countryside, with this thatched cottage nestled in a valley and its rustic setting preserved. Aurore and Steven have turned it back into a bucolic cocoon, where the cuisine is also reasonably simple and unadorned: homemade terrine, medallion of foie gras, roast cod with tarragon cream, flax-fed pork chop with caramelized juice, seasonal fruit tart in a good €35 menu. The natural and local way seems best, without the need to follow city fashions.