Auberge de la Grive

02300 TROSLY-LOIRE

14.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

4 PHOTOS

Chef Nicolas Gautier

Cooking French | Local | Signature cuisine

Services Accomodation

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

39€ à 96€

Gault&Millau's review

14.5/20

Chef's Restaurant Nicolas and Cécilia Gautier, whom we've been following for a long time (Nicolas also has the distinction of having twice been elected Jeune Talent, in 2010 when he was at L'Ardoise in Ognes, and three years later when he was at the helm of Château d'Esclimont), have returned to the heart of Picardy in the summer of 2023. They sold their two other restaurants, Nature and Bistrot RG, in the North of France, to create, in a magnificent country house they fell in love with (and of which they occupy a part as their home), this inn where they work in pairs, facing a dozen customers set up in a U-shape around a central island where the couple are busy. The menus are imposed, of course, but that's the only slight complaint the Gautiers might have. Even if the atmosphere can sometimes take a little time to warm up (it's not always easy to get along with table-mates you haven't chosen), the dishes that follow one another soon cheer up even the sorriest of spirits. The three toques are already very close, for the very fine char from Voulpaix lightly confit, lovage and nasturtium, the soft-steamed monkfish (wonderful flesh) with beurre blanc and girolles from Saint-Gobain and the gourmet blonde from Caillouël roasted over the embers. As you can see, Nicolas Gautier still loves working with local produce (and he talks about it with passion), and he doesn't neglect the desserts, which are very elaborate and personalized. The cellar is rather short, but very well focused.