In this picturesque village above Grasse, Stéphane Lucas runs this consistent, warm table, a rustic, old-fashioned decor, with local plates on the slate. The recipes are top-notch: celeriac rémoulade, charcuterie and salad shoots, a return from fishing, risotto from the Camargue, fish soup, sautéed perugines, lentils from the Marais Poitevin, old-fashioned vegetables, an apple tart with vanilla ice cream.