A bistro adored by fortress defenders, steeped in history and evoking, through its name, the success of Beaujolais in the days of the wine market, an address we'd love to adore, a menu offering plenty of tempting, reassuring, gourmet, rich fare... In the end, though, we're left with a mixed impression, recommending the safer, less expensive options (mortau with lentils, the remarkable mayo egg), but not swooning over the updated transcriptions, oyster mushrooms in parsley sauce, marrow bone and nori breadcrumbs, roast hake, celery mousseline and pak choï cabbage, and even profiteroles with chocolate sauce. The cellar is correct, but we could also expect a little more, focusing on Beaujolais, Burgundy and the Rhône Valley, with a few forays into the Loire, Bordeaux and Languedoc-Roussillon regions.