A professional, but above all an epicurean, Jean-Louis Duchêne loves to share. His cellar is open, and there's always a good keel to accompany the ideas of the moment, simple and of quality in this precious setting, like the lunch menu which hides behind straightforward titles a sharp execution: mozza de buffala and plum confit, back of saithe with Paimpol peppers and tapenade, melon soup with lavender.