This traditional institution, set in a superb location, is a sure bet to which the chef, Guy Savoy—a two-time Academician (of the Academy of Fine Arts and Gault&Millau)—is deeply attached. For it is the foundations of fine home-style cuisine—particularly spit-roasting—that are upheld here with care, respect, and expertise, while evolving and modernizing it with finesse: veal carpaccio with peppers, capers, and olives; spit-roasted Maine chicken; roasted peach with peach sorbet. Precise and efficient service; a good, well-rounded wine cellar.