It was a rocky start, but Astair finally found its stride, its niche, and its regular clientele. They take trendy dishes (ponzu-marinated sea bream tartare, grilled octopus), add classic Parisian fare (onion soup, confit duck leg, sausage and mashed potatoes), mix it all together with confidence and an efficient kitchen team, and the result is a reasonably appealing menu in a beautiful setting.