It's no mystery: Thibaut Spiwack runs one of the arrondissement's leading restaurants, and can therefore offer his clientele, in this very Parisian den of elegant bistros with large tables shared or on pedestal tables (the counter can be a nice option, but, because of its position facing the door, not recommended in winter), a predominantly vegetal cuisine, pretty, light and quite expensive: strong tastes (here we like acidity, vinegar, kimchi...) on the yellow pollack rhubarb crunching hibiscus green tea and rhubarb broth, a comforting combo eryngi purée celery emulsion....) on the carpaccio of pollack with crunchy rhubarb, hibiscus, green tea and rhubarb broth, a comforting combo of eryngi with celery purée and coffee emulsion that would undoubtedly have made a fine accompaniment (the pigeon, in this €65 menu, the only animal protein on the main course, is billed at an extra €20), before an agreeable dessert of pear comice with bergamot gin and a small almond-pear cake. The total calories will keep you fit for the afternoon's work, and the cellar, not huge, is classic in today's vision, biodynamic and natural, with a rather large and expensive choice by the glass. Well-educated service in a friendly atmosphere.