The kind of Parisian neighborhood bistro you'd like to have close to home: here, time has stood still, the decor is as it was, from the zinc bar to the pink neon lights to the Formica tables, and the passing years and the confinement haven't changed a thing. The plates are the same as they've always been: first-rate andouillette, mayo whelks, an occasional navarin, a few good skittles to wash it all down and you're done.