The fashionable "little means, much pretension" syndrome doesn't affect this little table in the Antique Quarter, where modesty and probity are exemplary. The young female waitstaff welcome and serve with natural cheerfulness, and the single cook behind his glass partition manages to manage the twenty or so diners with reliable recipes of the time: cauliflower and serrano velouté, perfect egg and pancetta, smoked haddock and granny, for the three starters well representative of today's bistro. The main courses have a little more trouble confirming the toque, but the sage-stuffed fowl doesn't fall short, with an abundant pearl barley risotto and a cider jus, finishing with a fairly simple blueberry-apple crumble. A small cellar is available for a small fee.