Prairial

Rating: 15.5
Author: Gault&Millau

69002 LYON

15.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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11 PHOTOS

Chef: Gaëtan Gentil
Cooking: Signature cuisine
Services: Access for people with disabilities
Style: Romantic

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

99 € to 135 €

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Gone are the beams, the old stones and the "bouchon chic" imagery. The Prairial restaurant has given itself a radical facelift. Welcome to a décor that could have grown in Copenhagen, Amsterdam or Stockholm: pure lines, noble materials, softened lighting. The kitchen is open, divided into small islands where the team literally works elbow-to-elbow with customers. There's no menu, no à la carte, just one dish after another announced by the wait staff with tact and finesse. A pretty triptych of fingers, as an aperitif guide: Lyonnaise potatoes and pike roe, rye-mushroom and caraway tacos or an ingenious "croque silure". A lovely dehydrated tomato with flowers and plants. A delicious taste of minty pastis fills the palate: we take the A7 freeway next to the restaurant and head for Marseille, almost with a scent of garrigue. Then a sequence of two very tangy starters makes you a little dizzy. Zucchini flower, pike mousse and fir tree oil, then Arctic char, butternut and pike roe with fig leaves, verging on an overdose of acidity. Fortunately, a duo of porcini mushrooms with a licorice crème montée and a few roasted almonds restore sweetness and a welcome fullness on the palate. The only meat on the table was veal with sparassis and veal jus topped with a dash of tea (the veal jus was enough). Two desserts round off the sequence: a pretty tableau based on bilberry and hyssop. A beautiful marriage arbitrated with ribot milk, blueberry sorbet and dried milk skin. And last but not least, a final version featuring pumpkin, milk jam and vanilla raw milk ice cream. The wine list is quite simply exceptional, with over 900 references. And the heart of the selection ranges from 40 to 60 euros a bottle, enough to treat yourself without breaking the bank.