Beyond the verbose overkill in presentation, which promises a "rebellious and contemporary" experience, there is the work of a convinced young chef who is somewhat renewing hotel catering. Aurélien Lasjuilliarias puts his energy into a cuisine that's not badly turned out, wiser than advertised, but precisely executed and easy to understand: smoked eel aiguillettes with meadow green sauce, veal fillet and cappelleti feet with squash anchovy cream chocolate sobacha miso parsnip ice cream for a fair-trade formula at €59. Lunch menu at €28, elegant setting and young, well-trained service.