Le Bois sans feuilles - Maison Troisgros

42155 OUCHES
18.5/20
 Prestige Restaurant
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© Felix Ledru
© Felix Ledru
© Felix Ledru
18 PHOTOS
Chef
César Troisgros
Cooking
French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine
Services
Access for people with disabilities | Accomodation | Children's Menu | Private Parking | Valet parking
Style
Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
170 € to 630 €

Gault&Millau's review

18.5/20
Prestige Restaurant Over the past eight years, Maison Troisgros has found its own tempo at Ouches, slightly set back from Roanne. Here, on this unique estate, nature invites itself into every measure. The building, with its modern lines, plays with transparency, captures the light and works with the foliage. Perspective follows perspective like a long, seamless piece. No soundtrack, no special effects: just the raw, precise silence of César Troisgros. The chef, a musician at heart and a potential sound engineer, has set up his venue as if mixing an acoustic album: nothing spills out! On this particular day, the menu is displayed like a single-sided vinyl record. The first appetizers serve as an introduction. A beet trilogy, a fine apple and mushroom tart, a beautiful squash and hazelnut duo to savour with your fingertips... Everything is just right. Then the Mont-Saint-Michel scallops arrive, escorted by turnips, pear and walnut oil. A perfect balance. The asparagus from Provence is accompanied by a hazelnut and soy butter and a mint and fry. Tart, often peppery, and lemony flavors never lose the table's attention. A first summit is reached, with this whole langoustine under a very fine almond tuile, with a few capers. The sea urchin tongues, sesame spinach and buttered dashi are surprising, struggling slightly to define the harmony. But the carmine pike-perch, accompanied by castel franco leaf and blackcurrants, sets a whole new tempo, bright red! The acidity, and the duo of white and black peppers, plunge us into another rhythm. The one and only meat: this lamb noisette will follow the score without disturbing it. The star of the plate is undoubtedly once again the beet and burnt lemon, contrasting with the creaminess of the perfectly perfumed meat. After so many peppery notes, one would have imagined a very spicy pre-dessert? Bingo! This clementine sabayon is accompanied by Séchuan pepper. And last but not least, a tangy chocolate mousse with quince water rounds off the meal with a light touch. The wine list is simply splendid. There's so much to choose from, in so many different formats, and so many different terroirs! And if you'd like a little guidance, the wine and food pairing service offers a unique experience for 610 euros.
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Address 728 Route de Villerest
42155 Ouches
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  • César Troisgros
    César Troisgros Chef
    César Troisgros César Troisgros Chef
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    Romain Puybareau Pastry Chef
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Romain Puybareau Pastry Chef
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    Jean-Philippe Tacail Chef de service
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Jean-Philippe Tacail Chef de service
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    Patrice Laurent Chef de service
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Patrice Laurent Chef de service
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    Haik Manoukian Head sommelier
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Haik Manoukian Head sommelier