Maison Nouvelle

33000 BORDEAUX

17/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

11 PHOTOS

Chef Philippe Etchebest

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Healthy cooking | Local | specialty

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

220€

Gault&Millau's review

17/20

Prestige Restaurant Philippe Etchebest has the house he wanted, in Chartrons, in his home town. He drew up the concept, the architecture with his wife Dominique, and even the language for the many interviews he is called upon to give. So everything is under "Etchebestian" control, much to the delight of network and reality show fans. Fortunately, the chef remains a consummate professional in every respect, even when it comes to entertaining anonymous or simply curious diners. In this multi-level, guesthouse-like space, he gives of himself, paying his own way to ensure that his teams pull out all the stops with every service, and stick as closely to fiction as they do to reality. This doesn't necessarily define the cuisine, but the liturgy works, and the plates follow one another, with the "vitaminized" kiwi celery, the signature mushroom raviole with foie gras, gourmet, fine and reassuring, the snacked scallops with burnt pointed cabbage and grapefruit, excellent sweetbreads (but such a small portion that you regret it from the very first bite) with chard, and lamprey from Bordeaux revisited under an assumed name ("freshwater migration"), marinated in soy and cooked on a Japanese BBQ. A very good chocolate dessert ("Smoking kills, eat it, chocolate cognac tobacco and mucilage") another less astonishing ("cereal killer"), but a constant search for that famous editorial line that defines a curious and committed chef, now very famous and who can't fail, putting all the ingredients learned over decades on his side. An excellent restaurant manager trained at Ledoyen (Christian Le Squer period, then Yannick Alléno), with a plethoric and logically expensive wine list, the sommelier knows how to adapt to the possibilities by the glass.