Restaurant Michel Guérard

40320 EUGÉNIE-LES-BAINS
18/20
 Prestige Restaurant
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Chef
Hugo Souchet
Cooking
French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine
Services
Access for people with disabilities | Accomodation | Children's Menu | Cooking lessons | Garden | Private Parking | Valet parking
Style
Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic | With family
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
305 € to 350 €

Gault&Millau's review

18/20
Prestige Restaurant Of course, as Andreu Coma Roca, who has been with us for almost twenty years and is now Restaurant Manager, says, "they're both here". Yes, without a doubt, you can't spend a moment in this house of so much happiness without feeling surrounded, enveloped by such a powerful and universal spirit, made of love and intelligence, of Christine and Michel Guérard. The chef left us a year ago and, as they both wished, thanks today to their daughters Éléonore and Adeline, this extraordinary house shines even more brightly every day. Thanks, too, to a whole legion of orderly, focused, happy participants, and first and foremost to chef Hugo Souchet. He is, better than an interpreter, better even than a fervent disciple, the one who transmits, as Michel wanted, that almost indefinable spirit of farmer chic turned towards gourmet refinement and pleasure that is assumed and never guilty. The reinterpretation of the mousseron pillow in dim sum, formidable for its lightness and mischief, infused with truffle cream and morels, is a case in point, as is the hen egg with caviar, embellished once again, cauliflower onion, bewitching lobster bisque, fine jelly and armagnac. In this magnificent dining room as designed by Christine and Michel, reconciling the Second Empire (furniture, paintings, crockery and objects on display) with the rustic spirit, beams, brick, large cut stone on the floor, astonishing Doric columns in century-old lemon trees, all guests are able to enjoy and marvel : from the Aire sur Adour asparagus with truffle apple and sabayon, turbot in black and white with a marine condiment of leek and cockles, the very Guérardian foie gras "ivre de Barocco" (one of the house wines), lobster and duck consommé, to the divine pigeon, with juniper wood, onion tatin and abattis, "paloumayre" juice (the "pigeon hunter"). And why is this pigeon so wonderful, so suave, so melting, so tasty? asks the maître d'hôtel. The answer is unstoppable: "because it's raised by its parents and eats the cereals grown on the farm...". Here we have a concentration of Eugénie's ever-present magic, combined with the perfect ballet of the service - that's the right word, because the masculine attire, black suit, vest, bow tie looks like it was made to waltz into Schönbrunn - the high quality of the desserts (meringue with candied grapefruit and ginger, tagette with rose geranium, or the excellent "marquis de Béchamel" rhubarb dessert, frothy and airy) and the numerous attentions, right from the appetizers (the sublime pig's trotter...)). We'd hardly dare point out that in this mythical place, which has been advocating abundance and generosity for forty years, the single menu, as with the Blanc-Becs, verges on the sacrilegious, but Chef Hugo's plate more than makes up for this detail. A great classic wine cellar, with Bordeaux at the top of the list and Burgundy and Rhône in the celebrations, of course, with well-tuned prices for each vintage, large or small. A few natural wines are available by the glass for a modern touch.
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Address Place de l'Impératrice
40320 Eugénie-les-Bains
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Monday Lunch Dinner
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People
  • Hugo Souchet
    Hugo Souchet Chef
    Hugo Souchet Hugo Souchet Chef
  • Karim Rabatel
    Karim Rabatel Chef de service
    Karim Rabatel Karim Rabatel Chef de service
  • Laetitia Andrews
    Laetitia Andrews Head sommelier
    Laetitia Andrews Laetitia Andrews Head sommelier