François Pelletier, the former chef of Abbaye de Bussière, rehearses his scales with consistency and talent in this beautiful neo-rustic room under the beams. Today, he's in his element, south of Chalon, in this human-scale inn where he expresses all his knowledge: green asparagus mimosa with smoked eggs, timbale of macaroni and morel mushrooms with wild garlic emulsion, organic trout from Crisenon with peas and mousserons, Quintart pigeon cooked on confit thighs and pearl juice before a fresh, tangy rhubarb elderberry sorbet dessert. Four-course menu at €50, and €70 for five, with each course available à la carte. Local and, by extension, Burgundian wine cellar, well-stocked and fairly priced.