Le Monde des Chimères

22000 SAINT-BRIEUC

12/20
Gourmet Restaurant

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12 PHOTOS

Cooking French | Traditional

Gault&Millau's review

12/20

Gourmet Restaurant Don't be fooled by the sign! For Stanislas Laisney and Jane Morvant the dream of settling down has indeed become reality. This emblematic building from the early XXᵉ, a little removed from the city's embarrassments, has benefited from a straightforward facelift. In the end, there's no decorative exuberance, just elegance and simplicity, luminosity combined with the softness of the dominant green. This is the domain of Jane, natural and sparkling, who deploys her ubiquity with ease. Admittedly, in these first few days of opening, the service is still breaking in, but with little detriment to customers who opt for the stunning lunch menu or pick from a short seasonal menu. For example, the "smoked" fromage blanc provides the link between white asparagus and small mackerel fillets for a springtime starter that provides the essentials. A fan of "land and sea", Stanislas dares to surprise with this cod paired with shredded beef cheek. The fish is impeccable and of high quality, and the meat has great gustatory energy. However, the marriage fails to convince completely. A few adjustments are in order and all will be well. As the sweet note proves: delicious rice pudding with caramel, customized with a touch of miso. The attractive wine card holder reveals a very short, consensual selection (without mentioning vintages): chinon from Famille Amirault-Groisbois, Terrasses du Larzac, saint-véran from domaine Thomas, sancerre from domaine Terres Blanches, côtes-de-provence from château Lauzade...

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