Le Fantin Latour

38000 GRENOBLE

17/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

9 PHOTOS

Chef Stéphane Froidevaux

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Local | specialty

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

125€ à 165€

Gault&Millau's review

17/20

Prestige Restaurant Just as when you lack a bit of identity, you have to go to considerable lengths to appear original, when you're Stéphane Froidevaux, you can afford a little cold soup of epiaire to quickly make it clear where you stand. The chef lives, cooks and loves nature, the herbs and plants of the Chartreuse and Oisans regions. His dishes don't resemble the tidy, artistic palaces of the past. It's even sometimes cluttered, as in this seasonal ratatouille where everything has grown at the same time: mushrooms, beans, peas, vitelotte, leeks, carrots and others under a forest of herbs. But the whole has taste and character, with a chestnut and tonka emulsion. The braised fennel is more academic, but very pleasing with the tangy flavors of wild sorrel and the subtle hint of licorice. The salmon with Chamrousse fir is a bonbon, with pomegranate hummus, beet and the scent of nepeta picked up near Alpe d'Huez by the chef, who always makes his Monday rounds to bring back a basket full of the week's aromas. He also revisits local dishes, such as the famous chicken with crayfish, here with an American dish reminiscent of Nantua, for a gourmet ensemble. In this old house with its soothing charm, the brasserie at lunchtime is lively, while the dining room becomes more hushed for the evening gastro, in an atmosphere of complicity created by a friendly and close service led by Stéphanie, the chef's companion. The greediness of the final acts continues unabated, with the emblematic crayfish coquelet and its small compote of Roscoff pink onions with cardamom, and the dessert of seasonal fruits and notes of meadowsweet almond, with banana coffee ice cream. The cellar is of the kind we like: on a human scale, interested in small, nearby wines (IGP Isère, IGP Alpes...), in the winemakers of its own department, and in finding bargains in consecrated estates: a pleasure for the snooper and bargains for the connoisseur.

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