You'll never miss the bright red front of this neighborhood staple, a true old-fashioned bistro, where people come as much for the menu as for the good humor. The plates go straight to the point, and the execution follows, with classics that rotate with the seasons: salmon gravelax, citrus vinaigrette with oriental spices, lean beef steak, mashed potatoes, tomato butter and ginger, a duo of ribs and rack of pork, mustard jus, barbecue sauce and roasted apples, chocolate moelleux with vanilla cream.