Le Baudelaire - Hôtel Le Burgundy

75001 PARIS

14.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

14 PHOTOS

Chef

Cooking French | Gastronomic

Services Accomodation | Disabled access | Terrace | Valet parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

72€ à 195€

Gault&Millau's review

14.5/20

Chef's Restaurant It's not easy to part with the cumbersome protocol of a "luxury" hotel. Here, we think that all these manners are essential to please and, above all, to retain. The setting must have cost a few sesterces, to dress up the lobby as a restaurant, or the corridor, or the back room ("but it's more for seminars"), or even the patio in summer. Nevertheless, chef Anthony Denon manages to express himself: his cooking is restrained, but reveals real talent. If the vegetal dominance sounds a little like an imposed exercise, he proves himself adept at it, in the appetizers, then in the lightly smoked salmon, sea urchin herb cream condiment and katsuobushi, a fresh, spring-like composition served with a little emulsion and ink tuile that's a little superfluous. Even more brilliant is his version of artichoke, with a herbaceous sabayon coffee condiment, which he subtly and powerfully coats with a glass of coffee-scented rum. The brill is less memorable, with a variation on cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower, well done, nicely cooked and just seasoned. Pastry chef Léandre Vivier follows the same principles of freshness with a fine work on rhubarb, fountain and meadowsweet. Elegant young service, with a smile when needed, manages to do the job without weighing the place down too much, while the cellar is old-fashioned and not very interesting, with a choice by the glass that's both modest and expensive. It's a global offer that the recently appointed young sommelier director is charged with reviving.

Plan

Address 75001 Rue Duphot
75001 Paris

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Opening

Opened today

Monday Lunch Dinner

Tuesday Lunch Dinner

Wednesday Lunch Dinner

Thursday Lunch Dinner

Friday Lunch Dinner

Saturday Lunch Dinner

Sunday Lunch Dinner

People

Chef

Anthony Denon Chef

Léandre Vivier Pastry Chef

Pierre Gauthier Head sommelier

Menu A la carte

Starter Artichaut étuvé / Condiment au café et pignons de pin / Sabayon herbacé €45 Romaine et pomme de terre primeur / Ormeaux Breton / Jus iodé €72

Main course Spaghetti de céleri / Saint-Pierre à la crème fumée / Parmesan soufflé €75 Blettes et chorizo étuvé / Filet de boeuf mariné puis grillé / Tetragone €76

Dessert Rhubarbes confites / Crème glacée à la reine des prés / Fontainebleau au fromage blanc €26 Crème chocolat cuite au four/ praliné au sobacha / Crème glacée vanille et whisky tourbé Ecossais €26

Menus Déjeuner Vivant €72 Menu en 4 temps €155 Carte Blanche à Anthony Denon en 6 temps €195