It's not easy to carry on the name that has delighted a whole generation of Camdeborde-style bistro lovers. Bruno Doucet has cleverly maintained the course and spirit, while proposing a slight inflexion, with a cuisine that's a little less personal and more "encodable". Nevertheless, there's a real sense of rigor and professionalism when it comes to well-chosen products, just-right cooking, respect and inventiveness for the best of the season, a real commitment to taste and real generosity in the plates (the portions are beautiful). Seriousness and two solid toques for the fricassee of green Puy lentils, roasted snails and Morteau sausage, poached egg, crispy confit of Basque pig belly, braised green cabbage, bacon chorizo emulsion before the impeccable Grand Marnier soufflé. A fine wine list offering fine quilles at all prices and from all regions. A special feature on the chef's region, the Loire Valley, with a page of favorite wines.