La Pagode de Cos - La Réserve Paris Hotel and Spa

Rating: 13
Author: Gault&Millau

75008 PARIS

13/20
Chef's Restaurant

10 PHOTOS

Chef: Jérôme Banctel
Cooking: French
Style: Romantic

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Opening onto a secret courtyard, this intimate salon-boudoir, named after Cos d'Estournel's second wine, was enlarged in 2021 to include the Duc de Morny's impressive library of 3,000 books. With its Second Empire-style decor and deliciously British ambience, the cuisine is simpler and more affordable than at Gabriel: a Victoria salad with green beans and bean sprouts soaked in goma sauce and topped with crabmeat, a generous supreme of poultry accompanied by admirable small chanterelles and a pan-fried vegetable with summer truffles; for dessert, a gourmet sablé made with pistachios, served a little too cold and topped with a strawberry compote, in which the acidity of the lemon is a little dominant. Cos d'Estournel's own-harvest crus are available here: almost all vintages from 1955 to 2015.