In France, it's probably only in Paris that a table with one chef's hat can do without a lunch menu, fill up at peak times (service is non-stop from midday onwards) and charge 100 (at the very least, carefully avoiding the sole meunière at 78 euros or the linguine with caviar at 95...) for a starter, main course and dessert with a bottle of mineral water. So, should you push open the door of this institution? Should you intrigue to reserve one of the tables on the (pretty) terrace in fine weather? Should you frequent the refined private lounges where the big deals are made? Yes, because the mushroom tart is as classic as it is delicious (with its crispy pastry), the roasted turbot is not lacking in nobility (beautiful product, precise cooking), even if we would have liked a little more artichoke purée to accompany it (but big appetites can choose from the satellites offered on the menu, mashed potatoes, fries, vegetables...) and because the service, at the top of the menu, is a real pleasure) and because the service, both professional and very active, still takes the time to slip a kind word to each customer while trotting between floor and first floor.