La Côte Saint-Jacques
14 Faubourg de Paris, 89300 Joigny, France
© Maison Kalos
© Maison Kalos
© DR
© DR
© DR
© DR
© DR
© DR
© Jean Michel Lorain
© DR
© DR
© DR
12 PHOTOS
Practical information
- Location
- Joigny
- Chef
- Jean-Michel LorainAlexandre Bondoux
- Cooking
- French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine
- Services
- Access for people with disabilities, Accommodation, Children's Menu, Cooking lessons, Garden, Pets allowed, Private Parking, Takeaway, Valet parking
- Style
- Elegant, Exceptional setting, Romantic, With family
Budget
(€)
Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
235 to 320
Gault&Millau's review 2026
Prestige Restaurant
Alexandre Bondoux earned this 2026 Gault&Millau d’Or Bourgogne-Franche-Comté award all on his own. Not just thanks to Uncle Jean-Michel Lorain, nor thanks to his grandfather, who founded this institution in the 1960s. Yes, because even though the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree, Alexandre has also become a chef who deserves both encouragement and respect. Today’s four toques are all his to claim, with dishes he has refined—and sometimes reimagined—and for which he can take full credit: the large langoustine with peas, tart Gariguette strawberries, the Arctic char from the Crisenon fish farm—well known for its trout, asparagus, wild garlic, and a lovely vinaigrette made from fish heads and bones—the perfectly cooked, caramelized veal sweetbreads, crispy on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth on the inside, rhubarb, radishes, and spinach, served with a rhubarb emulsion—a truly lovely dish emblematic of the culinary philosophy practiced here: no unnecessary experimentation, but rather meticulous precision and a subtle twist on time-tested recipes, infused with a touch of modernity and originality—a hallmark of the Lorain family across generations. A delightful dessert evoking childhood memories: the “blackcurrant barquette,” basil pesto sorbet with blackcurrant ratafia juice—an atmosphere that also stays true to the house’s style, a bit provincial and staid, but ultimately striking just the right note for what one expects from the Côte Saint-Jacques, with that touch of nostalgia that is not without nobility. The wine cellar makes great Chablis wines accessible—such as Raveneau or Dauvissat—and demonstrates a deep knowledge of Burgundy, featuring newcomers like Yann Durieux, while also touching on other vineyards and gently flirting with natural wines (Ganevat, Souhaut...).
Map
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