Le Feuillage - La Cheneaudière

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

67420 COLROY-LA-ROCHE

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

8 PHOTOS

Chef: Jean-Paul Acker
Cooking: French | Gastronomic
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Accomodation | Children's Menu | Garden | Pets allowed | Private Parking | Valet parking
Style: Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

105 to 145

Gault&Millau's review 2026

A tireless perfectionist, Nicolas Decker, owner of this Relais & Châteaux, has been improving his little jewel year after year. The latest renovation is the dining room décor, designed by Sarah Marc of Projart. In this new setting of black drapes and hammered brass, circular alcoves dominated by monumental chandeliers create a quirky, hushed and intimate boudoir atmosphere. The chef, Jean-Paul Acker, who has also worked at L'Oustau de Baumanière, offers classically inspired cuisine, brought up to date and served in a single set menu, priced at €145. As soon as the meal begins, a mischievous amuse-bouche invites you to guess the flavors of three Russian cigarettes, punctuated by an icy broth that awakens the palate. White asparagus from Alsace, chopped into filaments and combined with cockles and a savory shallot condiment, is enriched with vanilla butter. But the accompanying green asparagus sorbet, rather imposing and too rough in texture, struck us as unfinished. Duck from Ferme Doriath unfolds in a rich score: pan-fried liver, smoked duck breast, artichoke mousse, lasagne and burnt leaf consommé. Barbecued blue lobster, in the form of sometimes firm cubes, seems lost in a plethora of peas, but is aided by an exquisite creamy bisque with lovely aromatic depth. The Alsace beef fillet, cooked at low temperature and then snacked, reveals its tenderness against a slightly drier tartelette of shredded chuck. The Valrhona finish, with its creaminess, 62% ganache and caramelized grué, is crowned with an audacious Oabika sorbet. The wine list, rich in exceptional vintages and defended by an inspired sommelier, suffers only from an offer by the glass to be perfected. A generous tray of petits fours, served by our friendly staff, rounds off this experience where decorum, savoir-faire and conviviality come together in harmony.