L'Observatoire du Gabriel

33000 BORDEAUX

15/20
Remarkable Restaurant

9 PHOTOS

Chef Bertrand Noeureuil

Cooking French | Healthy cooking | Signature cuisine

Services Disabled access | Pets allowed

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

170€ à 195€

Gault&Millau's review

15/20

Remarkable Restaurant To tell the truth, we weren't really worried about the future of Gabriel's three toques. After the excellent Alexandre Baumard, who left to pursue a personal adventure in his Amicis, the arrival of Bertrand Noeureuil was reassuring. We know the man well, who was Arnaud Donckele's chef at Plénitude, a remarkable technician with an excellent vision of the plate in all its dimensions. He had to prove himself in a position of responsibility, and in particular by writing his own menu and therefore his own story. The first tests were successful, with a very fine menu-card formula at €175: beautiful and tasty, the plate of sardines on an escabeche soup, like the mimosa of hake with morels and kokotxa on a bewitching broth, and lamb in aiguillettes, less classic than it seems with its "marine wave" condiment. If there's still a touch of Donckèle in these colors, perfumes, flavors and delicacy, there's no doubt that the young chef will gradually assert himself. Seasonal desserts, not yet as spectacular, but very well done (rhubarb confit with rosemary honey), Gabriel service, chic, elegant and modern, a plethoric cellar where you can drown, but also find some very fine bottles on a budget.