L'Inattendu - Domaine de Locguénolé

56700 KERVIGNAC

15.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

9 PHOTOS

Chef Yann Maget

Cooking French

Services Accomodation | Disabled access | Garden | Private Parking

Gault&Millau's review

15.5/20

Remarkable Restaurant What a spectacular awakening! Surrounded by a park of some 20 hectares, this 19th-century château was for many years one of the jewels in the crown of Brittany's hotel and restaurant industry. Then time took its toll. Slowly, discreetly, it withered away. Bought out by a regional group and renovated at great expense, with an eye for comfort and aesthetics, the estate is once again shining. The succession of lounges - so welcoming for tea, aperitifs, digestifs or herbal teas - leads to the restaurant, housed in a contemporary extension: a luxuriant glass roof overlooking the banks of the Blavet. Refinement in no way detracts from the relaxed atmosphere. The wait staff make a major contribution to this. Led by Pauline Sebilleau, the very chic service is remarkable for its discreet attention, efficiency and kindness. In the kitchen, Yann Maget (who has worked with Alléno, Gagnaire and Kobayashi) instantly made his mark. MOF 2022, he combines cutting-edge technique with a keen sense of the alchemy of flavors and textures. In all his compositions, there are dazzling flashes that hit the nail on the head. His cuisine, which makes extensive use of local resources, doesn't shy away from a hint of the unexpected. The freshness of the crab is tactfully underscored by subtle notes of kari gosse ("Breton curry"), tagetes and limequat. In a deceptively rustic approach, land and sea make common cause through the graceful combination of black pudding and cuttlefish, enhanced by a dense ink jus and shiso apple confit. Artichoke and spinach are followed by a superbly crispy sea bass fillet. The marine dimension is further revealed with a marinara sauce sliced with coriander. Powerful yet delicate, pigeon, cooked in a variety of ways, does not miss its gourmet rendezvous with peas and Colonnata bacon. The cooking juices, enhanced with Japanese gin, are remarkable. The "sweets" sequence then brings Annabelle Levêque onto the stage. On this particular day, she lightly and meticulously arranged a plate around rhubarb, tea cream, milk mousse (with notes of raspberry, rose, lychee...), a sablé brew (a shortbread shortbread).As for the wine list, commented on with conviction and fluidity by sommelier Marie Choucha, it not only lives up to its ambitions (great estates) but also offers a wide choice of relevant wines, without overpricing.