Céline Lefebvre's simple, contemporary setting makes her one of the most recommendable restaurants on the busy Rue de Bourgogne. Her €42 menu-card suffers from no banality and shows as much audacity as quality of execution: a frayed skate, a declension of beet, passion fruit gel and grilled skate accompanied by soba noodles, a low-temperature piglet, polenta, lemon confit, oregano and parmesan or a kangaroo fillet for the curious, and for dessert a coconut cookie, kiwi-passion compote, coconut bavarois, avocado-yuzu sorbet. Regional selection in the cellar and craft beers.