L'EssenCiel

Rating: 11.5
Author: Gault&Millau

35300 FOUGÈRES

11.5/20
Gourmet Restaurant

Cooking: French | Traditional
Style: Casual | With family | With friends

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

25 to 55

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Jean-Marie Baudic had the good idea of taking over this well-known address (the Haute-Sève) and turning it into the counterpart to his Ciel de Rennes, with the same multi-speed rhythm (weekday lunch at €25, evening at €30, weekends at €42, tasting to order at €60), thus offering Fougerais a modern and practical table with well-sorted seasonal produce. Chef's cooking, then, by delegation, with the crispy beef with garlic cream mushroom sauce, the brandade of fish (lean fish on the other occasion) with a yuzu emulsion (very present) and an honest rhubarb dessert for a quickly put-together meal, on which a few seasoning adjustments will be welcome, and served by a lively, friendly young team. Clever cellar, not very thick, with a micro-choice (one of each color) by the glass.