Louis Chabran's talent lies in his ability to offer original, even imaginative, modern bistro-style cuisine that doesn't detract from the family's legendary setting on the edge of the N7. In the veranda that runs the length of the house, the atmosphere is relaxed as you savor a well-constructed €40 menu: maki of smoked duck breast with green beans and nori seaweed and apple chutney, pleasant fillet of sea bass grilled like a cassoulet and pico de gallo, whole quail with parsley potatoes, pear tiramisu with speculoos espuma. Also worth a visit is the tapas menu, which includes dishes from the à la carte menu in small portions for €50 for six plates. Professional, smiling service, the house cellar, as rich as ever in the valley, with great names and classics from the Cave de Tain.