L’Épuisette

13007 MARSEILLE

16.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

11 PHOTOS

Chef Guillaume Sourrieu

Cooking Gastronomic | Local | Mediterranean | Signature cuisine

Services Disabled access

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

98€ à 175€

Gault&Millau's review

16.5/20

Remarkable Restaurant In the typical vallon des Auffes, l'Épuisette has been delighting Marseillais for 80 years. With its unique location overlooking the sea, its look, its bay windows opening onto the Château d'If and the Frioul Islands, it's a landmark of Provencal cuisine. The menus set the tone: "Marius, Fanny, César". And yet, Guillaume Sourrieu avoids falling into the trap of Pagnolesque, by putting away the overly showy pastiches. Let's start with the appetizers, a veritable tour of the city - you'd think you were there! From the Velodrome stadium to the mother's wafers, everything is included in a fun and well-thought-out way. Mediterranean fish share the limelight: red mullet fillet, whiting from the open sea, bass cooked at low temperature... the chef knows how to cook them. But it's elsewhere that he surprises us. The sauces and accompaniments are largely inspired by Reboul (the one and only book on southern cooking), but he also has fun adding a touch of originality here and there. Red wine sauce with whiting? Tuna ceviche with citrus fruit and a few shavings of bottarga... or this aspic of rock fish soup, with a hint of saffron. The desserts are of the same high standard. These creations are as intriguing as they are light. The interpretation of the "castel marseillais" is perfect, with its whisky vinegar. And what can we say about this crunchy Etang de Berre strawberry, espuma with a vanilla crème brulée! We're on the verge of happiness, even if we'd like to see a more precise selection in the cellar (just above sea level), and the wines displayed by the glass. As for the rest... the vallon des Auffes has never been at such a high level... where you can eat Marseillais!