A small provincial restaurant where everyone, from the stoves to the dining room, strives to do things right, is a welcome addition to an increasingly loyal clientele. A contemporary setting, a skilful and inventive chef (as long as you don't overdo the scum and espumas, which are a little out of fashion) and good, layered menus that don't lack ambition: squid ink ravioli with gorgonzola and mascarpone, butternut cream with bacon, fried scallops with puffed rice, yellow wine and turmeric foam, Bresse poultry with foie gras and yellow wine foam. Equally sought-after desserts, Burgundy cellar.