A stone's throw from the Musée d'Art Contemporain and the bistro where Picasso and Dali once sat, Kevin de Porre has returned home to open Fario, in homage to the trout he caught as a child with his grandfather. A cuisine of memory and creation, where every detail is important; a cuisine that makes the radish magical in several textures, from the roasted root to the puréed leaf, in pickles, all sprinkled with vegetable charcoal that symbolizes the soil; the stuffed nasturtium flower, the fine raspberry-green bean tartlet had already captured our attention, and that was without counting the red mullet covered with its grilled scales, zucchini flower and fir sprout on a fish juice reduction: a true work of art in its presentation, with the stem in absolute green, in a plate of total legibility; we relax with a brie in emulsion on a touron ice cream covered with fine hazelnuts; cheese or pre-dessert, it doesn't matter, because the intelligence of the pairing makes this a dish we'll remember; the strawberry dessert, in compote under a basil crumble of great finesse, then in the form of a refined strawberry patch, completes our feeling of being in another world ; the three loaves of bread, the lukewarm focaccia with its butter presented as a replica of Canigou, the sacred mountain of the Catalans; the service is up to scratch, the head sommelier is voluble and the three toques have already been earned.