Domaine du Colombier

26780 MALATAVERNE

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

15 PHOTOS

Chef Johan Thyriot

Cooking French | Traditional

Services Accomodation | Children's menu | Garden | Pets allowed | Private parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

125€ à 179€

Gault&Millau's review

16/20

Remarkable Restaurant Johan Thyriot knows what he has to do: be himself, develop his personality and his signature, in this house in the Montilian countryside where so many good chefs have succeeded one another. Little by little, he is imposing his style, uniting his teams around the project, and conveying the right message to a devoted and very diligent audience. In his presentations, ideas and staging, we find his racy, curious and even sometimes playful touch (the plate "broken" into three pieces for the chestnut and chanterelle appetizer). We love his precision and imagination in treating the product in a variety of ways: scallops in truffle carpaccio, in panko breadcrumbs, grilled with trumpets, like the lobster, with its reduction of heads and wasabi, in bisque with celery purée and remoulade, in tongs also with celery and horseradish, show that the chef's years in Normandy, like his travels in Japan, have nourished his knowledge and creativity. The saint-pierre and sparassis crépu, also with its raw counterpart and a delicate walnut sauce, like the gourmet perdreau pattes rouges aux salsifis, benefit from the same attention to detail. The details are meticulous, from the appetizers to the mignardises, not forgetting the soft focaccia and crispy brioche to appreciate the homemade olive oil. An honest Jerusalem artichoke dessert from new pastry chef Christophe, a wine cellar with 850 references, including estate wines and a rather classic selection, with some strengths and some weaknesses, some attractive prices and others less so, taken in hand some time ago by a new sommelier, nonetheless assigned to promote estate wines as a priority.

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