Fabrice Bonnot, who inscribed his initials on the front of the restaurant, defends a certain idea of "cooked" cuisine, crafting original plates that often show a little whimsy, but also benefit from real chef's work. We salute the €26 lunch menu, which hasn't cost a penny since last year, and we're happy to pick and choose from the menu, for the snacked sea bream with fennel confit and shellfish in turmeric sauce, or the seven o'clock lamb shank with savory jus. The €52 menu is a good way to get to know the house, and the cellar has a lot to offer.