Welcome in all circumstances. The baseline devised by Franck Dervin, formerly of Chez Savoy, for his restaurant on rue Montmartre doesn't lie. An eclectic clientele flocks to his place, from a table of six Japanese obviously on a business trip, to a young student invited by her grandparents, or, at one of the tables sheltered under the branches of a tree that looks more real than life, a regular who has simply come to drink an espresso while leafing through his favorite daily newspaper. An atypical place, then, with a menu that's a little less so, but which rallies around good ideas: pretty shrimp ravioli drizzled with a gourmet coconut and Thai curry emulsion, a good potato purée with scallops (cooked just right) and an almond and pear moelleux that's a big hit in the cold winter weather. A canon formula for lunch (a dish, a drink and a coffee for €26), a variety of à la carte choices and, in the evening, a switch to sharing plates (or not).