At the former Chez Géraud (Géraud Rongier, who had made the place popular), people certainly chat, but they don’t shout back and forth across the room without restraint. This is the chic 16th arrondissement, where people prefer to order à la carte rather than choose the lunch special timidly presented on its tiny slate. The pâté-croûte from Maison Brosset is a gentle delight, the crispy veal sweetbreads with Sucrine lettuce make a bold statement, and the rum baba engages in polite conversation with its generous whipped cream. Parisian-style service, balancing a warm rapport with the regulars’ tables and a certain detachment toward the others; the wine list is reasonably priced but lacks imagination.