The cavalry is never late at Lafaurie-Peyraguey. Lalique crystal, great wine, luxury everywhere, the beautiful dining room opening onto the vineyards and the cuisine of MOF Jérôme Schilling, tourists are naturally spoilt for choice. The little extra is almost a mantra here, in the visible attention to detail, in the staging that sometimes verges on the ostentatious. In the kitchen, the chef is extremely rigorous, calling on truffles and caviar when necessary (always a pleasure with the cauliflower and vodka moelleux as an appetizer), and putting turbot on the honor roll, a la flamme and confit, carrot and kalamansi, sauternes fennel vinaigrette, goujonnette mayo, and a little further on, line hake from Saint-Jean de Luz, kimchi watercress purée as at Robuchon (he worked there) bergamot gel with elderflower vinaigrette... Sometimes, the pointillism reaches the limits of the genre, as with the asparagus and eel with sauternes verjuice, doing justice to neither, reduced to a mere evocation despite the great technicality and a good, light hollandaise, the taster finds chew and character again with the beef from Bazas condiment moromi (fermented soy) perfect with French-style peas and concentrated juice. The very good service, worthy of the place, is supported and supervised by Jennifer, the chef's wife, right through to the fine desserts by the new pastry chef, Jade Franceschino, such as her apple creation on a sweet potato base. A palatial wine cellar, respectfully collecting all the great labels, without indecency: everything is more or less affordable, relative to the status of the house, and the enlightened connoisseur can find the grand cru of his or her preference, even from Italy or Spain, at an acceptable price.