Now the leader of Montpellier's young guard, Clément Briand-Seurat assumes and persists. With three toques hard won last year, the young chef discovered by Gault&Millau near Pic Saint-Loup has no intention of stagnating. His house, in the heart of the old quarter, is becoming increasingly chic and elegant, the service is up to scratch, and the moment quite unique. Admittedly, you'll have to accept that you'll be taken on a bit of a blind ride, with little freedom in the absence of a menu and a dozen-course dinner menu, but the cautious can always come for lunch (€59 in three courses). The party's complete when the chef shows what he can do, and the way he sources his produce, with a network of regional producers who are already loyal, is very appealing to us: vegetables (Pauline's "alliacés"), foie gras from Mirande, peaches from Sète or the famous caviar sous césarienne from Saint-Guilhem, pork from Monts Lagast, citrus fruits from Chez Pellerin in the Tarn... A strong, well-stocked cellar in the department.